Seal of approval # barrartventure

The first impression I had as I flew into Barra and crossed over the smalls islands was the amazing array of fantastic beaches to be explored and enjoyed for their sheer beauty. The airport or the beach to be more accurate bearing the name Traigh Mhor is by comparison with mainland beaches massive when the tide is fully out and is actually the site of the three runways on to which the Loganair Twin Otter lands depending on the direction of the wind. One of the most southerly of the beaches we visited on Vatersay is the south bay or Bagh a Deas. This looks across to the smaller island of Sandra and more islands beyond to the south.

It was while on this beach we encountered a couple of the ‘locals’, no not the local inhabitants but two grey seals who caught or attention by their loud grunt or barking call as we were beach combing . It took us by surprise as they were swimming close to the rocks on the west side of the bay and made no effort to make off as we approached. They were inquisitive and not in the least shy. We watched them and they eyed us as we made our way across the wide expanse of unspoilt white sand. As I kept looking back over my shoulder, they were actually following us, keeping just a safe distance off shore and missing nothing as their heads appeared and disappeared intermittently. Getting a fairly good photograph of them was achieved with out much trouble as they quite obligingly stared straight at us for prolonged periods. Without doubt they approved of our presence and in some strange way I felt they missed our company as we heading up over the hill to get a view of the abandoned settlement at Eorasdail on the south east side of Vatersay.

It was a bright but chilly day so we decided to hike over to the ruins of a settlement to the west of Tangasdal. This meant negotiating the varied terrain of soft sandy beach, small streams, some boggy bits and some short but steep climbs and descents along the path which was marked by weather beaten posts showing the route to the dun. Our attention was taken by the vivid rich almost velvety green moss which appeared from time to time either side of the roughly defined path. The dun appears as a mound of moss covered stones projecting out on a short but fairly high promontory and on reaching it, we relaxed and had our picnic. Perhaps too grand a name for a simple sandwich and a hot drink but most welcome on a very chilly day. We wondered what life must have been like for the inhabitants of this structure when it was occupied. Certainly not comfortable by modern standards but probably inhabited for its strategic location and perhaps for access to good fishing and birds’ eggs. Nature had taken over the site but it had done so with a kind of soft and gentle cover of rich mounds of moss and covered the stones to disguise their hard edges. In November the hill above us Beinn Tangasdal with its massive bulk sheltered us from the full force of the icy wind but also shadowed this side of the island, so it was with great delight we eventually stepped out into the sun’s rays as we returned to the sandy beach and dunes of Tangasdal

As we approached a large galvanised farm gate we were conscious a a grey mass lying on the short beach grass on the other side of the path and just look what was there !

Whilst walking with our friends Eileen and Jackson the next day we had to abandon it in view of the heavy rain but we were rewarded with a wonderful rainbow and a double one at that. We get so many rainbows here making it is so special . I was trying to capture that moment …special, Eva Cassidy comes to mind.

Monday, day after remembrance Sunday, started bright and clear , but cold , so we decided to make our own wee trip along the coast to pay our respects to various memorials .

First we stopped at the war memorial for the serviceman of the first and second world war. As we drew up, a school bus with the local children was pulling away after they had been brought to think on the significance of the memorial and the service that had taken place.

Flags were flying and many of the wreaths were weighted down with stones to stop them from being blown away. We restored a few which had succumbed to being blown away by the strong wind., Some of the messages on them were very poignant. We both remarked on how many men were lost from such a small island.

As we took time to read the names, it came as no surprise to see that many of those who had served in the war were in the navy. Coming from an island community they would naturally be drawn to this type of service. The flags flying that day represented the armed forces and were accompanied by the Saltire reminding us of which part of the U K these brave had come from. It was only because it was Remembrance Sunday that the flags and the wreaths were on display.

I had a special reason for wanting to visit the war memorial as a friend of mine had asked me to take a photograph of it for him. He explained that a previous member of the rifle club, of which he was a member, had been involved in the design and construction of this tribute to the fallen.

As you skirt the northern edge of Vatersay by the road you are conscious of another small but quite significant memorial to a much smaller group of servicemen. In 1944 on the Friday evening of 12 May, a Catalina Flying boat took off from Connel Airfield near Oban on a night training flight . During the flight the pilot became disorientated and sadly crashed into the hillside on Vatersay. Three of the nine crew lost their lives with six surviving the tragedy. Even today almost 75 years later, the remains of the aircraft lie scattered on the rocky shore line and moorland . So much of it remains, it is hard to get your head around the fact that neither weather nor mankind have disturbed this memorial to these brave young men.

The ‘Annie Jane Memorial ‘ commemorates an even older tragedy and although marked by quite a small granite obelisk it is lovely to see the thoughtfulness of the islanders, who many many years after the sinking and destruction of the Annie Jane in a fierce storm, saw fit to prevent the loss of over 350 souls being ever forgotten. The ship taking emigrants to a new life in Quebec foundered off the island and over 350 people were drowned. The needle memorial shows signs of being visited regularly and a service is held annually to remember the souls whose hopes and dreams were shattered by the fierce storm on 28 September 1853

A collage of pieces of the plane from The Catalina Flying Boat

The surrounding sympathetic landscape seems a natural memorial in itself

It was with mixed emotion that I waved my hubby off on the plane on Tuesday but knew that I would use the next 4 days constructively to get as much painting started as possible. I spent the first few hours organising my work space, as one does and eventually got down to it .

Big adventure for me today, I took the car to the Coop, a 16 mile round trip.! The first time I have driven myself and I couldn’t believe how far it seemed. The weather was very wet but what took my breath away was how difficult battling with the wind could be . By the time I got home AND emptied the shopping into the house, I was exhausted.I spent a super afternoon in the studio however and got a few paintings further developed. Two paintings were drafted in an hour which I really enjoyed, feeling quite free and expressive.

View from our living room window looking towards Eriskay

Next day was a very different day, miserable wet weather outside, no chance of getting distracted so I worked on a rather long sketch I had started in August , and then made some soup, spaghetti Bolognese, and some mince , cleaned out the fridge, and dealt with emails. After lunch I made my way up the stairs to my new studio space. I chose to do a view of the cottage from the upstairs bedroom window . The little cottage I was looking at was surrounded by rich textures, so I decided to use a pallet knife to try to create this.

Over the next few days I was happy to paint. I found myself enjoying the peace and quiet and being on my own for the first time. I particularly enjoyed looking out of the small living room window and had my watercolours sitting handy to catch a glimpse of the light as it changed.

Now that I had had a little of ‘me’ time I was looking forward to the arrival of my daughter. I was praying the dreich weather we had been having would ease and the sun would come out for her, and sure enough, on cue, the day before Katie was due to arrive the sun came out in its full splendor

I drove to the airport beach and walked over and through the sand dunes to enjoy the waves. I also took a little time out to do a sketch of the crashing waves and found myself getting quietly excited.

Katie arrived on time and as the day was deliciously bright I Introduced her to her first Barra beach through the sand dunes , just as Eileen had done with me. We walked along the beach where I had sketched the day before and I was tickled to see the imprint of my body still on the sand where I had sat on the day before , a good sign of settled weather .

We were really blessed with a beautiful few days and I was so happy to be spending such a special time together with my girl . I found it particularly heartwarming to see her revert to the three year old I remembered, beachcombing and picking up shells, but then Barra has this magic of transporting you back in time .

After we had dropped our bags off at Crannag and had a spot of lunch we drove over the causeway to take a late walk to Vatersay . Whilst walking along the shore we watched a golden eagle soaring above us and by comparison at the end of the shore a young couple were flying a drone .

Next day began beautifully and it was so good to get out in the fresh air after being indoors for several days painting , so off we went together with our friends Eileen and Jackson and of course energetic Thai. We were delighted to spot two seals in Seal Bay who were very inquistive and came far into the shore to exchange gasps of delight from us all.

Enjoying our admirers

After some relaxing time pottering around we decided to head over the hills to explore

Naturally after our walk where we were ready for a scone and a cuppa at the post office

The North Bay community centre was hosting a concert on Katie’s last night, Heela a Seal. Three young musicians who entertained us with the pipes, violin and sung in the Gaelic . And as is customery a cup of tea and home baked cakes to round off a great night.

All to soon our few days came to an end but what a marvelous few days we had had. Archie would be arriving back after Katie left to join me again.

Katie at the luggage terminal , Getting ready to leave.

Bye bye Katie safe trip home miss you already

Both Flights for Katie and Archie were similar but this gives you the flavour of the take off experience as a spectator.

Seal of Approval #barrartventure

Search Posts